Sunday, February 26, 2012

Swanee

The hit song of 1919 was "Swanee", music by George Gershwin, lyrics by Irving Caeser. The first line of the refrain goes "I've been away from you a long time.....". Since I wrote about repetitiveness I thought I'd start with a couple of spots for which that line is most descriptive.

"Riverside Korean Restaurant" 512 Madison Ave. Covington (859) 291-1484 has been in place for about 20 years but I have not been there for 5 or more. Tuesday I had lunch with Paul Weckman, owner and chef of "Otto's", which plans an expansion the spring, and we both ordered the "dolsot bibimbap" the traditional hot stone pots filled with rice, vegetables, meat( me) or tofu( Paul) and topped with a fried egg and chili paste. Along with this ample main dish the server puts out a dozen or so small side items, reminiscent of a "rijstaffel" (Indonesian) or tapis, numerous and smaller bowls. Our sides( one might say condiments) ranged from Kimchee to an apple slaw and included several pickled vegetables plus spinach leaves, noodles etc. Fun, good, tasty and possibly the most authentic in the area.

Another, not resent dining spot, was "Nicola's" 1420 Sycamore St. Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 721-6200. It is "pricey" but to my way of thinking the best Italian in the city. Nick Pietoso has been in business for about 10 years( his son Christian runs "Via Vite") and the family really upgraded the Italian restaurant scene with his arrival. The evening started with a bottle of "Gavi", shared with another guest, and followed with salads and pasta courses. The other couple had Cesar( made table side, by the proprietor) which I tasted, it was wonderful; while Marilyn and I had a shredded Belgian Endive and pear combination, lightly dressed. Marilyn's main course, as usual, was pasta Bolognese, while I ordered, and devoured, two half orders; Veal Agnolotti ( large ravioli) and petite Potato Gnocchi, browned and served on a bed of very light cream sauce and chives. The Gnocchi were like eating light, small clouds of slightly sweetened cheese filled potato puffs. I can't rave enough or wait for a return engagement. As I said, diners are not inexpensive but the food, service and atmosphere are all conducive to a wonderful evening.

Other spot, for the past week, were also "top of the line" " The Precinct", with a completely new dish, "pounded" veal chop Picata. This new offering was outstanding and large enough for two, hungry eaters to share. The chop is flattened to about a half inch and is breaded and pan sauteed. The bone is attached to one side and a butter, lemon and caper sauce is served separately. A worthy addition to their "chop house" menu. Their lettuce wedge is also large enough to serve 2 if not a whole table.
"Enoteca Emilia" now takes reservations on the 2nd floor. Six of us had a large table, at 6:30, and the layout makes conversation quite enjoyable. We tasted and passed many items, from assorted cheeses to several deserts( many other items in between) and several bottles of Barolo. I wont attempt to list all the food items which made their way around the table but no one left hungry, thirsty of unsatisfied.
These two restaurants, plus others, make dining on the eastern side of the city a joy.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Wine listing

With the help of the Matre'D/Sommelier at "Orchid's", Charles Redmond here is a listing of the correct wines I was served Thursday night, not my poor guess:
2008 Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet
2009 Rex Hill Pinot Noir
2008 Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" Shiraz (this was with the sweetbreads)
2006 Chateau Cantenac Grand Cru St. Emilion
To any wine lovers, I'm sorry for my major error. Next time I'll try to record as I drink rather than guess afterwards.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Outstanding

What more can I say about a dinner at "Orchid's" at the Hilton Netherland Plaza, 5th and Race Sts. in the heart of downtown Cincinnati. As special as it always is, it is even more so when eating with the wife of the chef( Todd Kelly) in this beautifully appointed and served "art deco" dining room.

Thursday night the three of us dined and were later joined by the chef, himself.
After a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet, a wonderful white Burgundy, we decided to let Todd send out a meal of his choosing. The only thing we had to decide was how many courses(3 ) and whether we had any restrictions. Unfortunately Marilyn was not feeling well and so she restricted her dinner to a light clam broth and a chicken breast main course. Emily, Todd's wife, an I let the dishes come as the feeling moved our host.

Before going further I must tell you that our wonderful cousin had given us a gift certificate for "Orchid's" and therefore I felt no bounds, as you can tell from the beginning wine, thanks Nancy.

Dinner was as follows, all accompanied by selected wines, which I couldn't by name or vintage identify, but all, of course, matched the course as served. Our "amuse boche" was a basket of Parmesan stripes, baked and crispy, holding a white gelatin of lamb and drizzled with a sour cherry jelly sweeten to just compliment the balance of the presentation.
The first of the three courses was the incomparable Lobster salad, a medallion of chopped lobster meat, slightly moistened and covered with a poached egg and crisp onion straws.
The 2nd courses, diverged, with Emily having roast duck Brest, fruit compote garnish, accompanying, while I was served sauteed sweetbreads and caramelized Brussels Sprouts, two of my favorites. "Orchid's" either has an excellent computer system of an Executive chef who really knows his customers. I was smiling with every bite. As I recall the wines, all red after the opener were a Zinfandel, a Pinto and a Merlot, but this is subject to a clouded memory from my imbibing.
Our main, and third course, was a beef plate with a 3 oz piece of medium rare sirloin strip, topped with a mixed nut butter and roasted, plus a pulled, beef, short rib molded into a miniature "hockey puck" and roasted or quickly fried again covered and browned to perfection.
The vegetable accompaniment was shaved, marinated, fennel with the consistency of a crisp sauerkraut or inside of a cabbage head, wow.
We added a cheese plate for desert, Maytag Blue with a raspberry jam, french goat with a drip of fresh honey and a cows milk with candied orange peels and a sugar coated pecan half. We killed the last 1/2 bottle of wine as the dinner came to a glorious end.
Thanks to all.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Repetative

There have been several comment's, of late, that I am repeating places we eat too often. Some readers believe that limiting postings on the same restaurants would make reading more current and useful. Of course, that assumes that we will get to enough new places to still have something to post.
Trying to listen, and still hoping people will post "comments" on this site, I will probably make some compromises and write more in detail about some place we have not been for a while, or ever, and just list others unless some special item has stimulated me and my taste buds.

"Betta's Italian Oven" 3764 Montgomery Road, Norwood (513) 631-6836 Eat in or carry out.
We have not been there in over 3 years. Probably only once or twice since they moved from Mt. Lookout Square. "Betta's" was rated #1 by Cincinnati magazine for Pizza. I don't claim to be a judge of this item but their Pizza's are very good, especially if one likes "thin crust" as I do.
Last night we went with a young women and her 8 year old twins( adorable, all). There is a children's menu and after a full order of "garlic-cheese bread" the twins ordered items from that menu. We three adults(?) ordered 3 different pizza, some of each accompanied us home, Sandy and Marilyn each made up their own, which all shared. I like Sandy's the most because I thought the spinach added both color and taste. I went with the house special, an all white, which contained cut cherry tomato's, arugula, Parmesan shavings and prosciutto. Too bland for my taste.
With several; glasses of wine, beer and soft drinks the total bill, including tax came to $100.

Here are other places the credit card worked in the last week or so; "Brio Tuscan Grille" "Newport on the Levee" (859) 431-0900. Had the Bruschetta Sampler for the first time. Eight pieces, four varieties all interesting and good.
"Nectar Restaurant 1000 Delta Ave (513) 929-0525. A constant favorite with Julie Francis at the helm. All fresh and interesting. I had cauliflower soap with a crab salad and Grilled Ruby Trout.
"Cumin" 3520 Erie Ave. 45208 (513) 871-8714. I love Mung who makes every evening a success. Sampling allowed and we four did; from a special cheese appetizer, thru mussels, agnolotti( large cheese and spinach filled ravioli type pasta), lamb shank and salads. Wow.
Tuesday special at the "Keystone Bar and Grille" Erie Ave. Hyde Park, for lunch. Half priced Quesadillas.
And finally "Dilly Cafe" 6818 Wooster Pike, Mariemont, OH 45227 (513) 561-5233. New for dinner which for me was a wonderful Grilled shrimp and Asparagus salad with tomato's, greens, feta cheese as well as a full secure of shrimp (8 or 9 medium) and several grilled asparagus spears, light dressing.
I also had a Stilton Pasta with sun dried tomato's all in a light Stilton cream sauce. The salad and a desert would have been plenty. Food was good and wine "Hirsch Gruner Veltliner" was also as desired. They do have a nice wine list which all at our table, except Marilyn enjoyed.

So much for the new posting scheme. What do you think?

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Good Food

When Marilyn was in school, in Boston, a few years ago, the dorm would empty on "gray meat" nights and go to a neighborhood eatery run by an Asian man. I have asked her the name of this place, of her youth, and all she can remember was a sign in the window, "Good Food".
Obviously the place has not transferred here but the concept has, so here are a few places we have been and things we have eaten that come under that category.

"Cumin" 3520 Erie Ave. (513) 871-8714. Excellent cauliflower( a big item currently on menus) first course, the vegetable was perfectly roasted and mixed with golden raisins, pistachio nuts and a few other items and spices, all in a very light dressing. The excellent, too large, braised lamb shank came with surrounding items, and a moist and fine textured carrot cake slice had a delicious white cream topping.
"La Poste" 3410 Telford (513)281-3663. Whatever you do save room for the "chocolate-cherry" bread pudding covered with Carmel sauce. If you're a small eater have a cup of soup and desert, if your like me have the sweetbreads, crispy and flavorful, and the veal strip, much too much, ( take some home). You also have choices of brazed short ribs (sometimes over done) or one or two pastas along with plenty of other items. But again have the bread pudding, it's worth the trip.
"Cafe Mediterranean" (BYOB) 9525 Kenwood Road, Blue Ash, (513) 745-9386. A reincarnation of the namesake in Anderson with all the favorites. We share the appetizer platter and usual have a fish or calves liver but the meat dishes are also well prepared, interesting and tasty.
"Otto's" 521 Main St Covington, KY (859) 491-6678. Do I need to write? Whatever I put in this posting will be repetitious. Brunch, go with the Benedict Otto's( their take on Eggs Benedict), the B.L.F.G.T- bacon, lettuce and fried green tomato's on a croissant or the crab meat hash. Dinner scallops, shrimp and grits, tilapia or any of the meat dishes, all "good food". Some times I feel it's a waste to have the fried green tomato's other than as a separate item, they are outstanding.
Finally, a chain "Keystone Bar and Grill" in both KY and the Cincinnati area. Nothing fancy but decent upscale bar food with specials on Monday and Tuesday, all day. Monday's are approximately 10 Mac and cheese dishes and Tuesday's are half priced Quesadillas as are the Mac and cheeses on Monday's . The salads are large( read splittable) crisp and interesting while the home-made chips come crisp, plentiful and are perfect with the house barbecue sauce, they will also be happy to serve you a drink while you munch the chips or at any time.

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Sorry Ed

I sometimes get comments, all verbal, that I write about the same restaurants too much. It's hard not to do when we are served outstanding meals. That was the case Tuesday night at the "Oriental Wok-Hyde Park". Four of us arrived on a rainy cool evening and turned Guy Burgess, the chef free to feed us. To say he did not disappoint is an under statement.
After drinks the meal started with a tender sea-scallop placed upon a slice of purple eggplant which had been sauteed to crispen the egg white wash, into which it had been dipped. It was covered by the broiled scallop and a semi sweet sesame sauce. It was a combination of French and Asian all rolled into one wonderful item. This was followed, with a bow to Marilyn, with a half portion of crisp vegetable spring roll and a single "Pot sticker".
The main course was a pound and a half fresh, Maine, Lobster, cut into pieces and wok prepared with a very light Cantonese sauce. The large platter had not only 3 different types of mushroom slices, each one better that the other, but also baby bok-choy and a few scallions. Some dish!!
Guy also prepared "Ants on a Hill" a typical Chinese dish which Lang Lang had enjoyed 3 times on his recent visit to Cincinnati. This dish is seasoned ground pork with a few veggies, bean sprouts, carrot slivers, scallions etc, mixed in and all mounded over very thin gelatinous noodles.
We ended with a mango flan, slightly more firm, but equally pleasing. Some meal and some evening. There wasn't one item below the rave category.

Another interesting evening was our first visit to "Jimmy G's" 435 Elm St. Cincinnati, 45202 (513) 623-8555. This new addition (opened early December 2011) to downtown dining is run by a chef with much experience in the Cincinnati area and a distinctive twist on the items he prepares.
With another couple we decided to mix and match. I had my "Bombay"( $10.50), with house marinated, cocktail onions, almost large enough to count as a vegetable course and then the table split a bottle of fine Oregon Pinot( slightly pricey). The kitchen split two "house" salads, a wonderful combination of fresh greens, thin apple slices, golden raisins and all topped with fried parsnip shavings. It was beautifully presented and dressed. As sides we had an order of 4 Fat Fries, potato's made deadly by twice frying them, at different temperatures, in the above mentioned fat. We'll done both texture and taste and also an interesting Cauliflower Caponeta, cauliflower taking the place of the usual eggplant. The caponeta( their spelling) is described as spicy but don't be turned off it's mid-range and delicious. For main courses there was a "rib eye tenderloin" done medium, but pink throughout, which had fine taste but was a bit chewy, a yellow fin tuna steak, done rare and living up to it's billing and an order of "Gribbles"( their term) which are secured meats, 3 secures That evening pork tenderloin, in it's own distinctive sauce, cherry barbecue, and served with an accompanying item. The sauce and items were slightly disappointing, sauce extremely mild and the apricot kim-chee turned out to be thin strips of apples.
The owned and chef, Jimmy Gibson, was very evident and stoped by several times to chat.
Our split deserts were a dense Chocolate fig pate, heavy and rich, but an interesting combination and a deconstructed key lime pie served as a key lime custard in a cup topped with whipped cream and accompanied by wonderful house made pistachio biscotti. A most interesting dining experience.
A couple comment about "Jimmy G's". It has a very lively bar scene which is separated from the dining area but the noise of the band( loud) carries. Also the handicapped entrance( elevator) is thru the lobby of the building, a fact we were not given when we called to make a reservation.
As older dinners both of these have some importance. "Jimmy G's" is in the space formerly occupied by Wham-Mee and so is below street level.

More to report later as we are back to eating out.